1 minute DIY linen cushion covers


hesitate to call this a DIY since it’s so simple! There’s no sewing, no glueing, no nothing really! All you need are some linen pillowcases (mine are from H&M, 50×60 cm) and cushions (f.e. Ikea, 50×50 cm). Slip the cushion inside the pillowcase and fold the excess in (like you would on an old, straight pillowcase)! All done! 🙂

You can secure the ends with safety needles if you feel it’s necessary, but I think they hold well just folded in.


En oikein tiedä kehtaanko kutsua tätä DIY:ksi, kun tää on niin simppeliä. Ei ompelua, ei liimausta, oikeastaan ei tarvii tehdä juuri yhtään mitään! Tarvitset pellavatyynyliinoja (omani ovat H&M:n 50×60 cm) ja tyynyjä (vaikkapa Ikeasta, 50×50 cm). Sujauta tyyny tyynyliinaan ja taita ylimääräinen läppä tyynyliinan sisään aivan kuin laittaisit vanhanaikaisen, suoran tyynyliinan tyynyn päälle. Valmista tuli! 🙂

Päät voi varmistaa hakaneuloilla, jos tuntuu että tyynyt karkaa, mutta mulla nää tuntuu pysyvän nätisti ilmankin.

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Chair Reupholstery Tutorial

OK, so here’s a tutorial on how I reupholstered my office chair. 🙂

First you need to get rid of the old upholstery. I have no pictures of that, sadly, but that’s a different story with each chair anyway. Start by turning the piece around and see how the fabric is attached. The most usual options are either staples or tacks, which are short nails with a wide head. There’s tack pullers and wood staple removers in the stores, but I’ve just used a dull knife to get under the staple or tack and lift it up a bit, and then removed it with pliers.

Make sure to remove the fabric without ripping it (opening the seams is fine), because it’s easiest to use that as a template for the new fabric. I’ve removed all of the padding, although if that’s in good shape, it’s fine to just change the cover fabric with perhaps a new layer of batting to plump it up a bit.


Here’s my chair with the new foam padding in place. Most vendors will cut the pieces for you, so I traced the shape of the cushions to a paper and took those to the store. I attached with super glue. I find that spray glue doesn’t work as well as the regular stuff, but YMMV.


Top off with batting (I used polyester) and cut it to shape.


Here I used the old cover to measure the new fabric and to mark and cut the handle spots. Just remember to leave enough extra on the sides – it’s going to be much easier to work with! 🙂

Now there’s gonna be a ton of pics to show you how to attach the fabric. Please click on them to make them bigger…

So here we go! Any questions? I’ll be happy to help if I can! 🙂

Just as a disclaimer, if you have real antique furniture to upholster or want to get a gorgeous finish with expensive fabric, I strongly recommend you seek out a professional for the job. I’m nowhere near a pro! I’ve pretty much just learned by reverse engineering the furniture I’ve taken apart to reupholster, seeing how it was done and imitating that. I don’t know if this is the correct way to reupholster things, but I’ve done a few regularly used pieces over the years and they seem to be holding up well, and look nice enough for my own use! 🙂

Storage / Platform Bed


I needed more storage in the apartment, because I hate crowded, poorly organized closets. I like to see my clothes and regularly used stuff at once, and find it very frustrating to have stuff piled high. I also liked the idea of a raised bed, thinking that would create some separation between the “bedroom” and “living room” portions of my one room. The sliding doors are another hack-in-progress, more on them later…

bed plan

So I doodled a bit (drawing’s not my strong suit, as evident above!) and came up with something that I liked. Originally I thought to incorporate some kind of a bookshelf to act as a rail so I wouldn’t fall from the bed, but pretty soon I realised this wasn’t going to be necessary. I haven’t fallen from my bed since I was 4 or something… It also looked nicer without the railing.

Bed underlay top structure

Then I sketched it up with the measurements I knew I would work with. I had already decided to build the base out of Ikea kitchen cabinets and doors. I’ve seen a lot of raised beds in Ikea Hackers and elsewhere in the net, and the cabinet versions seemed to end up looking the nicest. They also played together with my new kitchen, helping to make the small space coherent and calm.


Altogether there’s nine cabinets. Four 80 cm wide ones: 2 in the front and 2 in the back. There’s one 60 cm wide cabinet on the back, since the back wall is 230 cm and 60 cm was the widest that would fit. And then there’s four 40 cm wide cabinets: one in the front and three in the end.



All of the cabinets rest on a simple wooden footing on the floor, but nothing is attached to the floor or the walls. The weight of the unit with the bed on top is plenty enough to keep it in place. I put loads of big felt pads under the footing to keep it from scratching the floor, in case I want to sell the place later. I’m not sure those are necessary, but they’re there now… I even remembered to paint the lumber footing before laying it on the floor, so I didn’t have to paint it in the spot!

The cabinets are attached to the footing and to the adjacent ones. Then I built the inner structure, adding lumber to hold most of the weight of the bed and to rigidify the part with no cabinets. The big pieces of lumber are on 2 corners of the bed and the cabinets and smaller lumber hold the back side of the bed. I also added 15 mm plywood on top of the cabinets to give them a nice finish and to keep with the theme of the kitchen (and to make the top level, where they’re not visible). Only the parts that are visible form under the mattress are treated – yes, I’m lazy. 🙂


My bed is a box spring -type bed (the kinda mattress with a built-in wooden frame, they don’t seem to sell the exact same type at least in the States) from Ikea and I attached it to the cabinets and the plywood with L-brackets. That way I didn’t need to build a “roof” to my storage space: the mattress forms the roof. I just made sure to measure the base so that the mattress covers the opening!

A quick search didn’t come up with a tutorial on how to shorten the cabinets for the steps, so I’m thinking of doing one. But since I didn’t take pics the first time I did these, it might be a while…

Basically, I just sawed the sides of one 40 cm wide cabinet into two and drilled new holes to correspond to the required bits to assemble the cabinets. To someone with a bit of DIY experience it was pretty straightforward and easily figurable just by looking at the parts and how they were supposed to fit together. Of course I needed 2 cabinets for the hack (to have enough top and bottom parts), but I didn’t need to use the sides of the other cabinet. I also got around with just 1 door for these shorter ones!

I left the 80 cm wide middle cabinet open (no backing!) to form a doorway into my storage space. To keep it looking uniform I only used the 40 cm wide doors. Most of the plywood is attached with screws from underneath, but the smallest step was so low that it was easier to glue the cover piece on it. Oh, and then I put some thick cardboard covered with DC Fix (a semi-permanent plastic film/tape) over the end piece on top of the steps, to cover the hole there and make it look nice. That’s just attached with double sided tape and seems to be holding up fine.


And I even have a light under there, to make it easier to rummage for what I need… I think it turned out pretty nifty, and it’s definitely great to have so much storage!  It makes me happy just looking at it – there’s nothing quite like the feeling of a job well done!

Let me know if you find this helpful and please share if you build something similar! I’d love to see your interpretation of the storage bed! 🙂

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Tutorial: plywood table with HAY trestles



I fell in love with the HAY Loop Stand Table, but my wallet wasn’t too happy about the price. The table was simply too much, but the trestles were more affordable… 2 years ago this table seemed like a big project, but a bit of DIY attitude and curiosity goes a long way: it was rewarding and I definitely learned a lot!

The local timber center (Puukeskus for my finnish readers) sells birch plywood in 2 sheet sizes: 122×244 cm or 150×300 cm. You’ll have to buy the whole sheet, and they will cut it to size (straight cuts) for a minimal fee. I got the 21 mm, and the thickest they have is 24 mm.

After calculating, pondering and taping outlines to the floor I figured I wanted the dimensions to be about 100×180 cm. I recommend you get the shop to cut it for you with professional equipment. Plywood can be tricky to saw – and we’re talking a table here, it’s pretty important to get the edges just so!

I wanted the trestles to sit about 20 cm from the ends, and that left me with a span of 140 cm in between. Now that’s so much that the table will sag and sway unless you rigidify it.

This is where the project got tricky. I didn’t come to think the plywood sheet would sag and I wasn’t prepared for it. Now I know better – one thing I like about crafting is you get to solve puzzles like this. It can be a brain jog, but that feeling when the pieces click is ah-mazing! 😀


This project clicked when I was hanging out at a hardware store. I didn’t want to add a ton of lumber under the table. I mean, it’s supposed to look very light and airy! And then I saw the solution: the Elfa wall mount rail was perfect for the job! It’s rigid enough without much bulk, sold in various lengths (anything between about 120 and 140 cm was good for me), has holes for the screws and comes in white! Hurrah!

The support and legs screwed in for stability (remember to select your screws carefully, so you don’t puncture the top of the plywood!), it was time to sand and coat the surface. I started with some 80- or 100-grit on an orbital sander and worked my way up to 240. Brush the dust from the surface between sandings.

Before the last sand I wiped the surface with a damp, almost wet cloth. This makes any remaining small fibers stand up from the plywood and once the surface is dry again, you can sand those away. I find this gives a smoother finish.

I used Osmo Color Wood Wax in White and Clear. I wanted an “untreated” plywood look but also a usable finish to protect the wood. That’s where the white tint comes in handy: if you just use a clear wood wax or oil, you’ll end up with a yellow tint in the birch – the kind of “oiled wood” look.

Working with the wax is easy, if you’ve sanded the surface smooth (also the sides and underneath!). I like to use a non-woven cloth, but an old t-shirt can work just as well. The trick is to add very little at a time, and to rub it in along the direction of the grain. Sometimes it’s hard to tell the grain direction in plywood, which makes it harder to get the color even. I watched the How to -videos in finnish, but I found some in english, too.

Just remember: with the tinted version any and all stripes or dots visible on the surface will stay like that, if you let them dry. I like to take a fresh piece of cloth to buff the surface a few minutes after I’ve spread the coat. Thin coats are OK, you don’t need much for a good seal with this stuff!

In the top photo you can see I only did about 15-20 cm under the table – I don’t think there’ll be too many spills that get under there, so I got lazy. I venture to guess things might be different if I had kids around… If in doubt, finish the underside as well! 🙂

A thin coat dries enough to re-apply in about 4 hours or more, if it’s very humid or cold. After 2 or 3 coats of the tinted wax I’ve let it dry for a day or two before adding the clear top coat(s). Aftercare is very important: I don’t put anything on the surface for at least 24 hours after it’s finished. I also protect the surface for about a week before using it heavily, since the wax will need time to harden. The wax will protect against liquids beautifully, but the wax (or the plywood) can’t handle direct heat, so use coasters for hot things!


Here you can see the difference between finished and untreated plywood. On this table I did 2 white coats and 1 top coat.

Thanks for reading, I hope you liked it! 🙂

Tutorial: Pallet sofa part 2

In part 1 I showed how I put together the structure of the sofa, and now we’re gonna take a look at the cushion. I wanted to keep it simple and compliment the boxy shape of the pallets. Fortunately this also meant that the materials were easy to find on the cheap!

You can buy foam material by the meter or cut to shape in many places (I’ve used the finnish Etola on other projects), but I happened to be at Ikea when I was mulling the options for the cushion and got lucky: there was a 80×200 Sultan Fonnes in the discount corner for half the price! Being the easiest option, I just bought another to match and went home happy.



This is how I laid out the mattresses, one is whole and the other is a small piece from the end (you can see the cut Fonnes behind the sofa on the top pic). Cutting the mattress was easy: I cut the fabric cover with scissors along my markings and then sawed the foam with a hand saw. I used a wood blade with pretty small teeth in the saw. The bigger the teeth, the rougher the edges. On the other hand, a very fine-toothed hand saw will take forever to cut through…

After cutting I stitched the covers together with thick yarn – stitches hold better in the fabric than the foam. The Fonnes also have stitching on the fabric cover, making them look stripy, but I wanted my sofa to be smooth. To cover the stripes I bought some old comforter from the recycling center and laid it over the mattresses. It’s easiest to just smooth it over and cut the corners when you have it positioned like you want. The inside corner was a bit trickier, that needed some extra material from the cut away pieces to cover the missing piece. After it was laying like I wanted it to, I stitched the corners together and the edges to the Fonnes cover material.


I wanted a white couch and had just enough white canvas left over from a previous project. This is my plan on cutting the fabric, I find it’s best to draw a plan. The plan doesn’t need to be fancy – just take a look at the crap I drew! That way you’ll know in advance that you’ll have enough for what you need, or in case it won’t be enough, you’ll still have that piece uncut for some other project.


I started by sewing the edge pieces together so that I ended up with a long circle of edge. Then I pinned and sew that edge piece to the top piece, making sure the corners aligned. After fitting it on the cushion I top stitched the edges to make it look finished. With a fabric that drapes easier that might not have been necessary, but I found the thick canvas looked pretty messy without the top stitching.

I didn’t have enough to use the canvas on the bottom of the cushion, so I used some thinner cotton fabric for that. I got a piece just like the top but about 1 cm smaller all around, so the edges of the canvas would wrap under the cushion and be covered by it. The back seam I left open, so I could slide the mattress inside the cover. I thought about sewing a zipper in there, but I didn’t have a long enough zipper and I’m also hoping I don’t need to wash the cover too often. That’s might be a future project, if I feel like it at some point.

Then I discovered I should’ve spent some extra money to buy a white comforter: that bright color totally showed through and tinted my white cover fabric reddish! I definitely didn’t want a pink couch, so I had to sew another “under” cover for the sofa, this time from the thinner cotton fabric. After sewing I hand-stitched the lower back seam and figured I’ll just rip it if I need to wash the under cover as well. Then I slid the top cover on and stitched the lower back seam in a similar way, and called it a day. It took me about a week of evenings to finish everything, and this is how it turned out!

I hope you’ll find this tutorial helpful/inspiring! If you decide to make something similar, please let me know! 🙂

Tutorial: pallet sofa part 1

I got a couple of comments and likes to my first post. Whoa – how awesome that someone actually read my blog?! 😀 After I got over my initial surprise, I realized Mckenzie from Why Buy it? DIY it. had a great point. I should definitely do a tutorial on the sofa! I’ll start with the bones and do another tutorial for the cushion.

I’ve had the pallets for a while. They have been a coffee table and a head board at my previous home. I found them from somewhere, sanded the outer surfaces and put a thin coat of Osmo Wax in white on them to keep them from yellowing. It’s not necessary to do anything with the surface if you don’t feel like it, I just thought they were a bit too rough for furniture use as they originally were.

The pallets I have are the EUR kind, which measures 80×120 cm. I wanted the sofa to be max 2 meters in width, so I figured I’d make a J-shaped sofa, since that fit my space best. Word of advice: it’s much easier to sew a cover for a simple rectangular cushion. If you don’t absolutely need a weird shape on the sofa or aren’t comfortable sewing, go simple!

The legs are simple, white square metal legs from Bauhaus. I wanted a comfortable seating height, and since the cushion and pallet add a lot, I went with 20 cm legs.

This is how I layed out the pallets, legs and the steel plates that connect the 2 pallets.


There’s a long piece of laminated wood that I had sitting around. It’s there to give my sofa structural stability when there’s more people on it. It was creaking before I added that, so I figure it might be a good addition. 🙂


This is a close-up on the steel plate and also some smaller pieces that I had around. The corner pieces are Ikea kitchen cabinet hanging things, if I’m not mistaken. Ikea parts are versatile… I’m a big fan of IKEA Hackers 😉


You might need to add some bits and pieces to make the parts fit. I had to put small supports under the beam on the other pallet, so it would support the  top boards. This will totally depend on the type of pallets and other parts that you use, and you’ll most likely just have to figure it out as you go.


So here we go! This should give a DIY-minded person a pretty good overview of the supporting structure of my sofa, but if you need more instruction or photos, don’t hesitate to ask! I don’t have any official training in carpentry or woodworking – I’ve learned by trial and error, and asking for advice and help when I needed them. 🙂